Tag Archives: hacienda correspondent

The Hacienda Correspondent: Balay nga Dakû


The choice for Balay Negrénse grounds as the place for the Philippine Blog Awards Visayas participants to have lunch is a superb one. Fresh air and the refreshing view of the big house made the organic lunch eating experience a unique one. While we marvel on the view of the house outside, the interiors are worth exploring too. The house was built by Don Victor Gaston, the son of Yves Germain Gaston, a Frenchman from Normandy and the patriarch of the Gaston Family who was one of those responsible of revolutionizing the sugar industry. Now know today as the Balay Negrénse Museum, this is one of the three standing Gaston mansions in the island and the one well known.

The actual family name of Yves Germain Gaston is Germain, a result of the old French naming system similar to the Spanish one which the paternal family is mentioned first before the maternal family name. In order to prove that the family indeed is a descendant of the original French family, they brought with them their family’s heraldic arms from France. This particular piece is found in the private office once occupied by Don Victor. Preserved with the office are some important documents related to their ancestry and some books which the esteemed French-blooded haciendero treasured and cared. The house has been nicknamed as balay nga dakû or “big house” in Hiligaynon which it really is with its enormous size.

Apparently, family kinship is very much important for the Gaston Family and they keep a genealogy wheel in Balay Negrénse in order to keep their family updated in their connection. The genealogy wheel starts off with Yves Germain Gaston and branches off to three which all built their mansions, Balay Negrénse included. The present generation amounts to close to a thousand descendants which are all successful in their field with those involved in business, arts, music, politics and some even Monseigneurs in their own right. One of their family members, the late Gov. Emilio Gaston was Governor of Occidental Negros from 1934 to 1937. I wonder if the genealogy wheel is updated since this is open to public.

As with any other ancestral mansions in Silay and other parts of the Island, the centerpiece of the house is the grand piano. There are other pianos inside the mansion but it is a grand piano that determines the social standing of the family. The so-called bragging rights the grand piano gives to the mansion’s residents are much like what a Hummer or a Rolls Royce can give at present. Indeed, even at present, a grand piano is still considered a status symbol. Grand pianos not only serve as a bragging item or a determiner of social standing, it was also used to feature a family member’s musical skills either in playing the piano or singing. A number of Gastons have been sent to the conservatories of Europe to study music and some like the mezzo-soprano Conchita Gaston is known worldwide and has graced several social occasions in Silay City.

One defining feature of mansions are their grand staircases which welcomes you immediately from the big main doors of the house. Have you ever wondered why the grand staircases? As the guide told us, it is mainly for a dramatic entrance of the party celebrant especially girls on their debut. Negrénse hacienderos love to party and they make these “dramatic entrances” 0ften and grand staircases are a convenient platform too which can act as a stage. Most of the mansion’s features may have derived inspiration from palaces that some of these hacienderos visited in their regular vacation tours of Europe. As much as grand staircases are mentioned best in fairytale stories, the stories of the mansion’s occupants seem to have a fairytale twist to it too. Most of the stories are hearsay but some have a grain of truth in the matter.

The best part of this house, just like any kind of house is the kitchen. Even as the house had modernized its kitchen equipment in the middle of the 20th century, the dirty kitchen concept still persists. It is here that the hard cooking is done using native ingredients to serve tasty gourmet meals for special dinners or just simply daily food. Hundreds of unique recipes must have passed by the charcoal stoves and clay pots of these dirty kitchens. Houses in Negros always have a space set aside spaces for the foods that require a little bit of dirty, or should I say smoky work. While dirty kitchens have waned down in style on the latter part of the 20th century, it is seeing a comeback as people re-explore the native ways of cooking food. No wonder why Balay Negrénse was chosen as the venue of the Adobo Festival every Cinco de Noviembre to serve as the renaissance of good food that houses like these showcased.

The mansion’s long table is often the scene of glamor and fine dining where the best of porcelain plates and silverwares are used. Children are separated from the adults when eating as to not disturb them in their dinners with spilled glasses, broken plates and often noisy disposition. Meals are often the venue for family members to update on each other about the latest happenings or on the latest price of sugar per picul on the market. Oftentimes, every meals would not only serve the residents of the house but also their relatives. It is a norm for haciendero families go rounds in hosting their family or even other haciendero families for lunch or dinner. Many times, it would be a showdown of the best recipes between families with one trying to outdo each other with unique recipes and the most elegant of dining ware taken down from the displays for the most important guests to use.

In the afternoon, the men and women of the house would gather in the sala of the house to enjoy coffee or tea while discussing business matters. These now empty coffee tables once host a retinue of men loudly talking about the latest in trends while the women continue in doing their business. Women would often do knitting together while gossiping about the juicy incidents about some occasional scandals that trick out of some confines. Silay may have been a bustling rich pueblo but the once laidback town is small enough for the latest rumors to circulate. Issues like the discreet affairs of men or the latest adventures of some “liberal” women are the meatiest of the matter, together with some gossip about bastard children thrown into the mix. Indeed, the afternoon coffees of yesteryears are your primordial social networking of the present.

As with any other old houses, an aura of mystique is also tagged with Balay Negrénse. The hysteria of haunted houses will always be attached to these balay nga dakû. Moreoften, it is the controversies and a number of hearsays that haunt these walls with a lasting impact. One can only imagine the busy activities that once saw this house when the sugar industry was once at its peak. The walls can speak only as much as what is written on the books are the words spoken by the guides. The curious and imaginative minds sometimes cannot help but be transported back in time when parties were held after the other. Balay Negrénse and other big mansions of Silay is a testament to the good life that many of those who migrated to Negros have long sought for. For many, an inspiration but for the present generation, a heritage worth taking care for the future generations to behold and learn.

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More photos on the Balay nga Dakû in the Photo Blog.


Balay Negrénse Goes Organic With Organic Lunch


Resting a while in the resthouse of Fresh Start Organic Farm, I overheard that there will be an organic lunch at our destination in Balay Negrénse. I thought all along that we would be eating in Balaring but instead, we will actually be savoring the organic products harvested at the farm. Our guide even mentioned of the organic lechon made from the vegetarian pig. If you just read this article and do not have a nick of idea of what it is, it is best to refer to my previous blog entry. Seems like they prepared a hearty lunch for us after all. I haven’t been to Balay Negrénse and the prospect of eating there in style gets me all the more exciting.

Going down the city bus, we were eagerly went to the table to check on the food available for our lunch. We were greeted immediately with the organic lechon on the table. Among all food selections on the table, the organic lechon got me by the wayside since I was curious with how the lechon would taste like and, how about the fat content? Turns out that fat is negligible at all with a tender and tasty meat. I did not taste a single langsa in the meat and it was a pleasant experience eating it with no dizzying feeling after eating. All I can say is that this is the best lechon I have tasted so far but I wished they kept the lechon from being exposed in the air so that it had retained its crispiness. Taste wise? It was a heavenly treat.

Asking about the rice, there is no sign of white rice here whatsoever. What we have here is actually a mix of all healthy rice variants ranging from brown, red and black rice. Really? My family is a fan of brown and red rice but I have not tasted black rice before. Speaking of black rice, a myth once said that if you are walking on a secluded trail and someone invites you to eat food with black rice, never accept it for you will never return to the real world. Junking myths aside, I chose black rice with mixed vegetables and fried kalkag. Fortunately, I was able to return to the real world and tell my tasty tale. Black rice has a sweeter and stickier consistency but tastier than your usual rice. This goes as well with your brown and red rice too.

After a busy round of lechon, I decided to look on the vegetables served on the table. I found mixed vegetable adobo of takway, eggplant and okra with bagoong to add further taste and some chilis to spice or garnish on top. For those who are not familiar with takway, it is a marsh-grown vegetable that is taken from the shoots of taro plant. This is an award-winning recipe and has been continually served in the adobo festival every Cinco de Noviembre on that same spot where we are eating. Takway is supposedly a sacada dish since it grows mostly on swampy farmland but nowadays, enterprising chefs has lift the takway from its lowly status in the farms to the tables of some fining dining restaurants in Bacólod and Manila with laswa or as adobo in itself.

Being a kilawin lover, I was elated to have found kinilaw nga tangigue on the table with some steamed okra immersed in bagoong. For those going to Negros, kinilaw nga tangigue is a must since tangigue is very much abundant in Negros Island. If you are going to restaurants or even simply wet markets in Manila, you will find tangigue disturbingly expensive there. Kinilaw or kilawin is very much similar to the ceviche of Latinoamerica only that the Negros variant sometimes put coconut milk into the mix apart from cane vinegar. In some restaurants and household recipes, you will be even find salted eggs added with tomatoes, chilis, onions and calamansi to add or improve taste. Missing kinilaw na tangigue, I got a lot on my plate and it never goes sum-od or nakaka-umay.

If you something more fishy, there is also fish buried in tons of flavorful fruits to taste like pineapples and passionfruit with eggs as sidings. Though I have seen a passionfruit and has tried passionfruit juice, its my first time to have seen passionfruit served on a dish. Getting bit of fish on my plate, I took some passionfruit. Not knowing how a passionfruit taste but to my surprise, passionfruit is actually sour. No wonder why they turned it into a juice mixed with sugarcane but the sourness has class and flavor too.

Though late on the table, I was able to enjoy tinola too made from native free-range chicken. Native free-range chicken, or what is locally called bisaya nga manok, is a kind of chicken raised inside an enclosed wide space. Instead of being fed with corn or any kind of processed feeds, they are set loose to feed on whatever they can find on the ground or on the leaves of kamias trees. The usual regimen in cooking tinola is having papayas and ginger to remove the langsa or bloody smell but ginger is not as effective all the time. In Negros however, tanglad or lemongrass is used with ginger to not only remove the smell but to enhance flavor with aroma. Malunggay or horseradish tree leaves were mixed when the cooking is almost done as not to completely wilt the leaves.

Just as I thought tinola was the last dish to arrive, roasted duck immersed in pineapple sauce also added to our delight. Like the chicken used in tinola, this duck too is free range and set loose to feed on plants, insects and some small snails. Free range ducks are most flavorful since ducks set loose produces dark meat which is most flavorful and less with fats. In fact, this roasted duck is leaner than what is usually served in Chinese restaurants too but the meat is oozing in flavor especially enhanced by pineapple juice. With potatoes as sidings, its a filling treat which reminds me of dessert. While there were cookies on the table, what attracted the attention of guests was the homemade piaya.

I was able to document the whole process of making piaya and while I was able to wait a while, the Manila Bloggers were very much eager to see piaya making in action. The lightning speed of the cook in making piaya amazed the onlookers which was very excited to munch on the proud delicacy from Negros. While Bacólod is known for piaya, the first documented piaya was made in Silay but then on was sold in Bacólod bakeries. It was good that piaya-making was exhibited from the city of its roots with an extra-special treat too since the filling was also mixed with sweet mangoes. They served organic coffee too and prefered mine done in latte to compliment my plate of piaya. It was a filling afternoon indeed for me and other bloggers. While I was enjoying my cup of organic latte, a call from the tour guide was my signal that we will be touring Balay Negrénse in a while.

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More photos on the Organic Lunch at Balay Negrénse in the Photo Blog.


The Hacienda Correspondent: Fresh Start Organic Farm


The Island of Negros has been envisioned by the past three Governors of Occidental Negros to be the Organic Food Bowl of Asia and almost a score or two decades later, the Island is closer to the dream. The two Negros provinces has perpetually banned genetically modified organisms or GMO crops from entering the island and has implemented LGU initiatives in promoting organic farming. Answering the call for organic products and seeing the great potential, Fresh Start Organics stood up to the test and is now one of the biggest organic promoting companies in the country.

Through the efforts of Negros Bloggers, the Philippine Blog Awards Visayas Participants were able to see the showcase of organic living in Negros. Chin-Chin Uy, the owner and operations manager of Fresh Start Organics was there himself to explain how the enterprise started. He started the business in 2005 and recalled having to climb the ladder of scrutiny in order to prove that there is future in organic farming. A few years after, he is now the President of ONOPRA or Organic na Negros Organic Producers and Retailers Association and an ambassador of organic farming. The secret to organic farming is the right formula for organic fertilizer which he shares willingly for those who want to learn.

The star of the show is the species of worms called nightcrawlers which is important in making your organic fertilizers. These nightcrawler worms are the booster version of the earthworms. Contrary to popular opinion, earthworms are not the primary animals responsible for organic farming since their role is rather to bore holes in the soil to promote airflow. Thousands of these worms are the most important “employee” of the farm which does the work 24/7 and so must be taken good care of. Processed compost is the main source of food for these worms. Mr. Uy explained to us that the farm started with only a couple of kilos nightcrawler worms and soon enough, they multiplied rapidly cutting the costs for another purchase. Did I mention that their food must be processed compost, right? Here’s how they process compost for the earthworms to digest and throw out.

Like how humans eat food, food for nightcrawlers need to be cut into manageable pieces too. That is where your shredder comes in which converts your large chunk of wood or leaves into almost powdery pieces. The shredder used for the demonstration is a pretty tough one which churned or rather shredded your large madre de cacao clippings into powdery fines. Fresh Start Organics have partnered up with Silay City LGU in converting biodegradable wastes into organic fertilizers that some public markets in the city have been equipped with shredders to ease transport. Apparently, you cannot just mix everything into one mix, you need to have a balance of nutrients with 75% carbon and 25% nitrogen by combining a quarter of nitrogen-rich plant matter like vine plants and the rest with various plant matters. The key to the best organic fertilizers is the right formula.

Shredded plant matter should also be processed before the worms can digest them. These plant matters are kept for weeks in order to rot which releases nutrients need for soil fertility. Enough heat is a necessary component to decompostion and as the plant matter decomposes, a machine is operated once every two days in order to sift through the decomposing matter. Sifting enhances the process for equal distribution of heat by friction. The process of decomposition takes another week before it can finally be used as food for the worms. Usually, the processed compost is set aside to cool down in order the worms to actually munch on them. Hot composts drives away worms and so may take days before they actually start to munch.

Processed compost is kept with your nightcrawler worms in this roofed shed in order to keep temperatures low. The processed compost can already be used as fertilizers but science has proven that those made with nightcrawlers yield higher nutrients for the soil. The nightcrawlers actually feed on the compost for nutrition and flush out the rest as wastes. Nightcrawler wastes have higher fertilizing effectivity than your chemical fertilizers. Since these worms are constantly hungry creatures, their “work” must be monitored in order to replace the wastes with new composts. You might wonder how the “worm poop” is harvested? The harvesters simply put new composts on two ends of the compost pits in order to encourage “migration” which the areas ready to be scooped out will be free of your precious nightcrawler worms and ready to be used on plants.

A plant by the sides of the compost pits also caught the attention of Iloilo Bloggers because of their unusual shapes and colors. These are another species of chilis which commonly grow in the most fertile of countrysides. The colorful hue of the seed pods attracted my attention too since I last saw this more than a decade ago when Dad brought home some. The colorful bloom of these seed pods and the strong green hue of the leaves are a strong indicator of a very good soil. Understandably it is because it is right by the compost pits. As if heralding the news that the soil is fertile, the nearby chili plants are in full bloom too. I took some with me to Manila hoping that it will grow on my pot at home. Mr. Uy led us to the lettuce patch to explain to us how organic farming is done with organic fertilizers and without pesticides.

Quite a lot noticed that the land patches are surrounded by sunflowers and some lemongrasses. As Mr. Uy explained to us, these sunflowers are not only for decorative purposes but actually serve as insect repellants. Lemongrass has insect repellant qualities which releases chemicals that drive away pests while your sunflower here attracts the attention of other pests which munch on the leaves of the sunflower instead of the vegetables. Despite the insect infestation that these sunflowers suffer, it continues to bloom and its seeds an added income for either the plain sunflower seeds or are turned to sunflower oil. I was glad that some employees in the Fresh Start Organic Farm let me take home mature sunflower seeds for my own personal consumption.

The colorful sceneries in the farm is a pleasing sight to my eyes with flowers in full color and full bloom. Fresh Start cultivates vine plants for use of organic fertilizer as mentioned earlier. Some vine plants like pea pods are sold as organic vegetables too with healthy flowers as an indication of a very healthy plant. Herbs are also grown in the farm like basil, oregano, turmeric among few others which are not only supplied in Bacólod-based restaurants but are also shipped to Manila resturants like Cibo, owned by a Negrénse entrepreneur. Among the herbs, what caught my attention but unfortunately was not documented by my camera is the stevia. Mr. Uy told us to try eating the leaves which I am hesitant at first but was worth the try since it was actually sweet! He said that companies like Pepsi are coming up with a study to utilize stevia as a natural alternative sweetener. Stevia is low in glucose content yet so sweet and so the future to sugarless foods lie in your stevia.

From the resthouse, one can see the colorful blooms of various lettuces growing from the farm patches. Fortunately for us, Mr. Uy allowed us to harvest lettuces for our delight. I was one of the first people to step in the challenge and experience lettuce harvesting myself. Negros Blogger Glady Tomulto of ExperienceNegros.com was their to document the whole harvest endeavour with another Negros Blogger Elena Gatanela of BacolodRealty.com. The lettuces were plumper than those I usually see in farms at Tagaytay and Baguio which is an indicator that the soil is indeed rich. Others jumped in the wagon as well and had their try of lettuce harvesting. The harvested lettuces were cleaned, processed and pack fresh for sale at a cheap cost of P50 for us. That is many times cheaper than those sold at the supermarkets of Bacólod and much more that of Manila or Cebú.

A little commotion at the back of the farm resthouse caught my attention as talks of a vegetarian pig spread around fast. Vegetarian pig? Was it a sort of vegetarian replacement for pork or is the pig vegetarian? The latter theory was correct since when I went to that little shed, I found a thin-looking pig. This vegetarian pig is not malnourished but lean because of its vegetable diet. I found this pig munching on madre de aguas leaves and the caretaker told me it also feeds on reject parts of the lettuce harvest. Pretty amazing for a a creature known to be fat, huh? Because of its diet, the pig’s manure does not smell too. The caretaker explained on that there actually used to be two pigs but the larger one has been made into lechon which will be delivered for our scheduled lunch at Balay Negrénse. Organic lechon for our lunch? Its the signal for me to leave with the group and head out to Balay Negrénse Museum near the downtown area of Silay and feast on our Organic Lunch.

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More photos on Fresh Start Organic Farm in the Photo Blog.