Category Archives: Travel

April 5, 2012

Mount Banahaw: Experience History and Mystery

By Mark Mayo - Magallanes

A Short Trek to a cave dedicated to Mary the Virgin at Mt. Banahaw

Looking over at old pictures in my Facebook account, I came across an album about my Rizal Studies Class’ fieldtrip to Mount Banahaw. Dr. Jose Rizal and Mt. Banahaw? You might ask me what is the connection between the two but well, only slightly. This mountain is home to the community of what has been called “Rizalistas” or those syncretic religious groups who consider Rizal as either prophet, Filipino “Messiah” or God the Son himself. My Evangelical Christian faith would abhor at such ideas but it was a unique cultural experience that shows how strong still are our ancestors’ animistic leanings in some of rural Filipinos.

A cemented trail in one of the communities of Mount Banahaw in Dolores, Quezon

Mount Banahaw has been the center of mystical beliefs in southern Luzon which sees a flock of visiting witch doctors climbing the mountains to commune with nature and some “supernatural” forces. Local belief has it that the Holy Land was “mysteriously” transfered from Israel to this little enclave because of the wars going on in the Middle East. Devotees of animistic belief like the so-called Rizalistas consider Mount Banahaw as a “holy mountain” or a sort of Mount Zion for these animistic groups. While Catholic beliefs have some foothold here, it merely added another flavor syncretize with some Christian “themes” and “terms”.


The so-called "Yapak ni Kristo", footprint-like impression on rock with wishing coins

In the village community of Kinabuhayan, one could find a shrine of candles by a body of spring water. What is special with the spring? On the bottom of the water lies a boulder with a footprint-like impression which was named “Yapak ni Kristo”. They believe that this was the footprint Christ supposedly left before he ascended to heaven and was “mysteriously” relocated at this part of Mount Banahaw. Devotees or curious tourists alike would throw coins on the imprint and have it land on top of it for good luck while some would offer candles on their way maybe to the nearby Tres Persona Solo Dios Religious Community nearby.

A guide pointing at a book-like formation called the "Book of Life"

Another curious natural formation etched with religious significance is the book-like rock formation called the “Book of Life”. It is said that if one lights a candle, writes the name on the rock formation using the fingers and utters a short prayer, one’s name would be included in the “Book of Life”. By this point, you would realize that part of these people’s syncretic beliefs involve a lot of creative thinking for who would have noticed it looks like a book. The area is littered with other natural formations like “Terah’s Rock”, an image of the “Trinity” formed on another boulder and another rock formation of a devotee or saint prostrate in deepest prayer.

Yours truly emerging from the very narrow and mystifying Justicia Cave

Caves constitute an important part in the centrale belief of the locals. From the cathedral-like heights to the most claustrophobia-inducing narrow ones, caves have dominated across religious stories, no wonder why caves in Mt. Banahaw are held as “sacred”. We explored Justicia Cave, a very narrow cave said to “stretch” according to a person’s size when someone enters it. It is said that the sinless who dare explore will come out unscathed while those with sin will have wounds but will be absolved. It was a literal crawl to the end of the cave and what do you know, I came out unscathed! I think the cave should “upgrade” its sin “detector”.

A Mount Banahaw river trail to a submerged cave

Even if we remove the mystical aspect of Mount Banahaw, the place in itself exudes an awe of mystery since it is a rainforest with all its natural beauty intact. From clean flowing rivers to its hardy mountain trails, Mount Banahaw and the neignboring Mount Cristobal attract nature enthusiasts and mountain climbers as well. Native species of animals still dwell in the hidden nooks and crannies here. At present though, a big number of mountain trails are closed to public due to incessant littering problems. However, the area continues do draw tourists who are there for a nature trip or just curious about the culture in the locale.

Tribute to Macario Sakay, the last straggler general for the first Republic

This area of Mount Banahaw and Mount Cristobal is its historical draw as well. Vestiges of nationalism, seeds of the revolution and the struggle for freedom had their last ground here. The Cofradia de San Jose or the Confraternity of St. Joseph, a movement to indigenize the Philippine Catholic Church, was started at the foot of Mt. Banahaw by Hermano Pule, an Indio priest rejected for membership to the Dominican Order. Their movements met a violent end at the foot of Mount Cristobal with its members massacred by the Spaniards. Gen. Macario Sakay also held base with the last remnant of the First Philippine Republic here.

The vibrant community of Mt. Banahaw at Dolores, Quezon

Interested to the explore the place for a cultural, natural and historical experience? One tip is that go as a group so that you can divide the expenses among yourselves since you may have to hire a jeepney for trails and attractions farther from the town center or poblacion. Food and accommodations are not a problem at all but do not expect a high-class accommodation, just hikers’ inns and some food from the carinderias run by friendly locals. Some inns do provide you with a small cooking space and fresh ingredients are available in the local market. The most important reminders? Be courteous to the elderly and never leave your trash around.

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April 2, 2012

Basco Balikbayan Project: Rediscovering Filipino Heritage

By Mark Mayo - Magallanes

The Basco Brothers and of course, their sister Arianne

How much of our kasimanwas have gone abroad to settle in a faraway land? For most of us, if we have relatives abroad, they are most likely in the United States. In the United States alone, there are close to four million Filipino-Americans which first settled in the United States at the height of the Martial Law era. Filipino-Americans are spread all across the United States in various terrain but most settled in California like my aunt and her family.

A June 2008 photo of my Filipina-American cousin's visit to the Philippines

My cousins are first generation of immigrant families there but they are characteristically American and does not speak a single sliver of any Filipino tongue other than “Mabuhay!” and “Kumusta?” Last month, I was invited to the press conference of Basco Balikbayan, a documentary project of the second-generation Filipino-American Basco Family to visit the best places in the Philippines and rediscover their uniquely Filipino heritage.

Filipina Actress, G. Tongi explains the gist of the Basco Balikbayan Project

The project is jointly produced by Giselle Tongi and Michael Carandang, an Emmy Award-winning producer for the Tyra Banks Show and America’s Next Top Model. Basco Balikbayan Project was born in the realization of Ms. G that there has been a lack of creative production that features the Philippines specially geared towards the Filipino-Americans who have never even seen the Philippines. They will part of the journey of actor Dante Basco with siblings Darion, Derek, Dionisio and Arianna to rediscover the homeland never seen before with its culture and richness of life.

Producers Michael Carandang, G. Tongi with host Tim Yap

Philippines’ Department of Tourism will be very much part of the production, taking the Basco siblings to  Palawan, Davao, Cebu, Ilocos, Naga, Pangasinan, Zambales and Baguio, as far as I have asked them, Negros Island was part of their interest list. In a jam packed but fun schedule, they will be going to key natural and historical places, savoring the local cuisine. The low-cost carrier Airphil Express will ferry them to the destination of choice.

The Basco Brothers and Sister with producer G. Tongi

While in part it is a documentary, it will also be featured as a series that will be pitched or is planned to be pitched in This project will pitch in with  Travel, A&E, Bravo, History, Discovery, Own, Tru TV, TLC, Current TV, Biography, DOC, and the National Geographic Channel. With much hope, the project will be a magnet for other Filipino-Americans to take the same path as well but in my own opinion, will be also a tool for us Filipinos left in the Philippines to actually travel around and discover the richness of our own country for – It’s More Fun In The Philippines!

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January 10, 2012

Viaje Sur: Boracay Island

By Mark Mayo - Magallanes

Saying my pleasant farewells to the wonderful people who accommodated me in Nabas, Aklan, I headed out to Boracay Island which is just 15 minutes away. Stepping into Boracay Island is nothing new to me. I remember ten years ago when I first stepped into the island and it was a memorable experience. The world-famous island I saw only postcards and in my relatives memoirs I now experience, I was ten years old then. The last time I have been to Boracay was three years ago when I also took the same route I traversed in my Viaje Sur journey that inspired me to travel this way again. As I view pictures of online forums, I noticed that a lot has changed with this island paradise and I went there to find out.

Boracay Island has three gateways with Caticlan Airport serving smaller aircraft from Manila, Cebú and Puerto Princesa, Kalibo International Airport serving international flights with domestic services from Manila and Cebú, and Caticlan Port serving those who go by sea from Roxas Port in Mindoro. Caticlan’s status as a primary gateway to Boracay practically made this little baranggay the most prosperous in its mother town, Malay, Aklan. The area is always busy with tourists boarding the boats heading to the famed island. Getting there requires you to pay three kinds of fees with the Pumpboat Fare at P25 or Montenegro Fastcraft Fare at P30, Environmental Fee at P75 and Terminal Fee at P50. I got my fees together and headed to the island.

The glimpse of the island from the shore already got me surprised with random settlements sprouting up in the area. The Boracay of today is not anymore the Boracay I first experienced as a ten year old kid. What looked like an island paradise now looks like a random seaside town somewhere else in the Philippines. The feeling of awe and sadness just got into me and I thought that they have messed with this island so much. The island’s main thoroughfare, just behind the resorts that line the White Beach is busy with people peddling their products and wares. Random apartments, stores and even a wet market can now be seen in the area. Development? Over-development I say which made me want to get as fast to the beach front and check it out.

After I found a place to have me settled, I immediately wormed my way to the White Beach. In contrast to the hustle and bustle of the back-alleys of Boracay Island, the White Beach still looks pristine with random boats passing the the shores. The jetty port for the island was transfered to the lonely corner of Brgy. Manoc-Manoc to have this serene view of the sea. Since it’s Christmas season, people crowded the beach to get a suntan or just go along the little waves. Most of the people crowd in the Station 3 area where most of the affordable accommodations are while it’s most spacious at Station 1. I hanged out at Station 1 just to have a time of relaxation alone under the sun while enjoying a glass of mango smoothie at hand.

After finishing my drink, I immediately headed out to explore more of Boracay Island. From afar, I spotted the iconic rocky outcrop on Station 1 which has been the staple of Boracay pictures. This rocky outcrop has built a reputation in itself apart from that of the island. I saw some tourist take pictures atop the rock so I set out to have so myself. This part of Boracay Island is most pristine and no winder why some people stick along it’s shade as the cool breeze touches the body. With my frustrations with the overdevelopment that has damaged the island, somehow this is the redeeming face of it all. I was thinking that this part of Boracay must be preserved at all costs for it shows the best of island life, laid back, green and serene.

From atop the rocky outcrop, I even spotted fishes swimming near the safety of the rocks. Fishes swam across the sun’s glitter on the clear waters. The presence of fishes proves that Boracay Island’s waters is still clean after all. Measures to curb coliform count that was once disturbingly high on the shores must have worked after all. There’s not much garbage too from what I saw just three years ago. Boracay Island has been recognized as one of the best islands of the world and this gave the Department of Tourism more pressure to exact changes in the island. The island’s ecosystem is a fragile one with some rare geological formations like the rocky outcrops where the controversial resort of Manny Pacquiao was built on.

With the intellectual sides aside and mind free from worries, my Boracay getaway is just right from all the stresses and work that Manila life presses on me. While lying on the sand and watching the view, I cannot help but think how many days of pressures from workload will this vacation ease. There is nothing perfect than just being in a place with just you and nature both giving praises to the Almighty Creator. I was able to have a bit of sleep and luckily, no one ever thought of robbing me. The sun’s glitter over the splashing waters and the powdery white sand had a therapeutic effect on me. After a while, I felt that I need to eat and so I went on walking the whole stretch from Station 1 to Station 3 just to find the perfect spot to eat.

Finding a nice spot to eat in Boracay can be a bit of challenge too. Trying not risk everything, I decided to eat at my usual Manila favorite, Yellow Cab! My food may not be the island-ish type but I amuzed myself by watching the people passing by. Filipinos among a crowd of foreign tourists, foreigners with their Filipina girlfriends or Filipino guys with their foreign girlfriends, locals peddling their wares to Muslim traders selling their pearls, people in beachwear from the revealing to the most beach conservative. The Boracay crowd is indeed a case study in itself, a cosmopolitan crowd cramped in such a small island. How much more can Boracay hold? Well, it was not for me to think because I came here for rest and relaxation.

A day’s worth of walk merits a nice sleep in my little niche for after Boracay is a 5-hour long travel to Iloilo City on my way finally to Bacólod City. The boat service from Caticlan to Boracay and vice-versa via pumpboats are not a 24-hour operation but they ferry tourists between ports early dawn and late into the night. I took a humble pumpboat out of Boracay early to catch a trip to Iloilo City at the bus terminal. Vallacar Transit services commuters from Caticlan to Iloilo City daily via the airconditioned Ceres Tours or the non-airconditioned Ceres Liner. After a long journey through beautiful islands and scenic seas, it is now time for me to take the last long trip that will take me home and explore my own home island I call Negros.

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More photos available for the curious eyes at the Photo Blog Entries I, II and III.

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January 5, 2012

Viaje Sur: Secret Wonders of Nabas, Aklan

By Mark Mayo - Magallanes

No one can appreciate the beauty that this world has to offer until one has traveled. Oftentimes, the most beautiful of places on Earth are the ones on the road less traveled, pristine and unspoiled. While people think of Boracay Island or Kalibo’s Ati-atihan Festival when Aklan is mentioned, there is a hidden gem just tucked away in northern Aklan that is just a mere 15-minute ride from Caticlan, the gateway of Boracay Island. Frequently passed by buses but neglected by the ordinary tourist eyes is the town of Nabas in the Province of Aklan.

One just has to look outside the tourist bus windows just to see how beautiful this quaint little town is. This town of 28,000+ people features natural wonders both on the mountains with its natural cold springs and the sea which boast of crystal clear waters from white sand to pebbly shores. In my visit to Nabas, Aklan, it was timely that my Dad was there to take care of our businesses in that town and was able to help me get around. Through his interactions with the important people of the town, he was able to tell me some interesting facts about this curious laid back town.

A bit of history shows that it was a Magallanes, a Spanish gobernadorcillo, who was one of the catalysts into creating the town of Nabas from the town of Ibajay where it was once part of. Until today, the Magallanes Family and their descendants are the ruling political clan of Nabas, Aklan which made me very much at home. I was able to meet my distant relatives on the first time who was happy enough to meet a relative from Negros Occidental. They even invited me to attend the biennial family reunion, a tradition they started fourteen years ago in 1997.

This unbroken tradition shuffles the venue by clan and the lot happen to fall on the clan in Nabas, Aklan this year. Sadly, I was not able to go because of important prior arrangements in Bacólod City but I was able to be accommodated at the family guesthouse which was the venue of the family reunion. The guesthouse itself and its expansive lawn “mowed” regularly by goats as organic grass cutters  is replete with history since it was where the town’s cemetery was before it was relocated in its present location. Nevertheless, the curious history did not scare or spoil my time at such beautiful place.

Early mornings are beautiful in Nabas, especially along the beach. I was able to get up early and walk from the small resort house where I was staying to the beachfront at the break of dawn. The view of golden sunrise shining on the beautiful waves of the blue sea is a wonderful sight to behold. While the pebble shoreline stopped me from having my jog, the sound of waters carefully pounding on the pebble shores is a relaxing sight to behold and the fresh air reinvigorated my body. How often do we take for granted such wonders of God’s creation? I guess we can appreciate it here where everything is serene and calm.

I removed my sandals and felt the therapeutic feel of pebbles under my feet while watching the sun-lit waves crash on the seashore. Nabas has two kinds of beaches with the ones heading to Caticlan having white sand beaches while the ones heading to Kalibo having pebbled shores, like this one. This pebble shoreline is just so lovely for me, littered with driftwood of curious sizes, coconuts drifting from distant islands to this shore and curious varieties of rocks that will surely appeal for those that keep aquariums. Being a rock collector, this Nabas shoreline is simply a rock collector’s haven.

What I found of curious abundance are silica quartz rocks, the types of crystalline rocks that are being processed for use as computer chips or fiber-optic cables. Nabas, Aklan has seen busy days exporting these quartz rocks to the computer chip factories. None of those fabled barges are landing by Nabas shores today but these rocks continue to litter the shores of the town, with townspeople barely taking notice. Apart from silica quartz, marble rocks also litter the shoreline and also of equal abundance. By the rocks, I even found jade which I kept to send as a gift for my Mom being her birthstone.

While picking the most beautiful crystalline rocks I have ever seen, I spotted some people pulling a line from the sea. Curious enough, I asked my Dad what they are doing. He said that this is the way people in Nabas fish. They set out the nets far at sea attached to ropes and bring the bounded end of the rope back to shore. For photo ops and a bit of exercise, I asked the locals if I can help them pull the net back to shore. With my Dad on the camera, I took the rope and started to pull with them. Pulling the nets back to shore did surely break some sweat. I am just doing this for the first time but they are doing this every single day.

After half an hour’s struggle to bring the nets to shore, we were able to catch a sight of nets slowly being dragged to shore. Just as I thought that it would be an easy way in, it took another round of pulling to have the nets on the shore. While we cityfolks have the convenience of buying fish or seafood in the comforts of the supermarket, these people have to do this daily so that they would have the daily sustenance of fish. As the net is slowly getting to shore, I got more excited with what the fisherfolks caught for the day. I’ve never seen fish caught from the sea still flipping and moving.

Unfortunately, after an hour’s worth of muscle stretching by pulling the ropes, they only caught a handful of fish and trapped what could be Spongebob and Patrick’s favorite, white jellyfishes. Asked the reason why and I found out that they set out the nets too late in the day. When the sun starts to light up the sea, the net becomes more obvious and the big fishes would try to avoid the nets as much as possible. Smiles abound even with a few catch as people just got their hands on the still moving fishes which would most probably be made to sabawan with some sweet potato tops and seeing a cityfolk actually join them in their daily routine.

After a filling lunch at a local diner in the Poblacion, I once again headed out to the beachfront to explore some more the wonders that I have yet to see. As I walked along the shore picking up more of those crystalline rocks and some curiously-shaped marbles, two kids joined me in my walk and talk about what they liked to do. They were helpful in picking up the best shaped rocks along the shoreline. Asked where I was heading, I pointed to them the rocky outcrop by the sea that I saw at a distance this morning. The kids told me that they were heading there too to look for some nice spiders they can catch for spider fights with friends.

Getting close to the rocky coast got me excited for this is a rare sight to behold, quite untouched and preserved in its natural pristine beauty. My only problem though is the thick carpet of seagrasses right by the shore which keeps on sticking to my sandals like leeches but it added to the pristine feel of the place. I first saw the place from a distance a decade ago when my family was traveling to Boracay in a van. As a kid, I was curious with how these rocky outcrops look like close-by. The wish took a decade to fulfill but I was able to come close and actually sit on one of the rocks.

Upon reaching the rocky outcrops, I now understand why no one has ever gone to that area. Lying on the bottom of a cliff and directly at the edge of deep blue sea, it is an adventure in itself but the bit of effort is worth it. Towering above you are thickly foliaged trees while on the coast beholds a wonderful sight of the clear blue sea. The big rocks lying on the shore are in fact marble which makes me realize why a lot of houses in Nabas have marbled floors. Marble is just so abundant in their area that they are able to afford putting it on their floor and walls, some even have it solely as building blocks!

While most of the rocks are too heavy to carry, I was able to find a beautiful specimen back home. Red in color with intricate designs in crystalline white lines, I took home this wonderful masterpiece of nature with a driftwood to accent the top as a souvenir of this trip. While the two kids are busy with finding their spiders, I took time to sit and just look at the wonderful view. A view as spectacular as this is hard to find nowadays. While the waves splashed on the rocks, I though of what has happened to me in 2011 and what I wanted to accomplish in 2012. The place was just right for a wonderful time of reflection.

Just as I was getting mesmerized by the scenery, I received a text message from Dad that I must work my way back since the father of the two kids who joined me will give us a treat of fresh coconut. Calling out on the young folks who actually climbed a tree just to find their perfect spiders, I told them in my broken Akeanon that their Dad is calling them back. Though they did not ask for it, I gave them some spare changes I have in my pocket to their very delight. We picked some more quartz crystals along the shore before I finally found my way enjoying fresh coconuts. I had fun in Nabas, Aklan and I wish to go back here but more so, I hope you would swing by yourself here before going to Boracay to experience a unique and unspoiled natural wonder.

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More photos available for the curious eyes at the Photo Blog Entries I, II, III, IV and V.

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January 2, 2012

Viaje Sur: Tablas Strait

By Mark Mayo - Magallanes

My arrival at 2:00pm in Roxas Port on the shores of southeast Mindoro Island was just timely. Montenegro Shipping Lines’s scheduled trip to Caticlan is at 3pm and I was able to choose the best seats in the deck to have a rest or sleep. In this part of the journey, I will traverse the Tablas Strait, another busy sealane with ships traversing the southernmost geopolitical outskirts of Southern Tagalog-MIMAROPA to the northernmost coast of Panay Island in Western Visayas. I will finally be crossing over to the Visayas but the trip takes at least 5 hours depending on weather conditions and port arrangements over at Caticlan. What I liked about Montenegro’s ship is that they have relaxing interiors and reclining chairs for me to sleep.

The choice of movie for the apparently bored ship folk is “Armageddon” but I was too tired to actually keep my eyes on the television. Apparently, theft cases on ships are quite common so one has to be careful and vigilant too. If you want to sleep in comfort, I suggest bringing a small pillow but having a backpack at hand will work just fine. With a cool interior, I was able to sleep for a two solid hours while tightly clutching my bad. Not your very comfortable seat but was able to do me good. Waking at 6pm, I did not see the sun set but there was enough light for me to actually see what is out at sea. I spotted the ship bound for Roxas Port that is scheduled to ferry passengers to Caticlan at 10pm. Just on the horizon, I spotted the southern tip of Tablas Island belonging to Romblon Province from which this body of water was named after.

Just the rightmost part of the horizon, I spotted Carabao Island. Carabao Island has pleasant memories with me since we visited the island as a segway from the nearby Boracay. The island is still part of Romblon Province but was actually considered as an alternative nature destination to the crowded Boracay Island. Carabao Island once had a chance at gaining from Boracay developments with the now virtually dead proposal to build an international airport in this island. The redevelopment into an international airport of Caticlan-Godofredo P. Ramos Airport by TransAire of San Miguel Corporation laid this plans to rest. Nevertheless, Carabao Island is worth a visit if you have much time in your stay in Boracay.

Boracay Island is just a few kilometers away from Carabao Island but the contrast between the two is stark. The laid back Carabao has only a few bulb of lights and some torches lighting the seaside while Boracay Island is well-lit. Boracay Island has transformed itself from a secret hideaway of Negrénse hacienderos and some foreign adventurers to a cosmopolitan city-like island feel of the Philippines’ premiere tourist attraction. It was almost three years since I last visited the island and the Viaje Sur adventure will culminate in Nabas, Aklan and in Boracay Island. The sight of Boracay Island reminded me that Caticlan is just near but it took the ship another hour to dock at Caticlan Port with the congestion of ships wishing to dock there. I was finally able to set foot in Caticlan Port at about 7:45pm with a quick dinner at Andok’s before settling in a resort in Nabas, Aklan.

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More photos available for the curious eyes at the Photo Blog.

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January 1, 2012

Viaje Sur: Isla Mina de Oro (Mindoro)

By Mark Mayo - Magallanes

As I said my goodbyes and blessings to the beautiful voice I discovered on my musings in Verde Is. Passage, I encountered a scenery of Calapan City I have so long missed. I passed by this route before but I was not able to appreciate the sceneries around the Port Area all well. Disembarking from the ship, I wandered around to find the van service that I have contracted all the way from Batangas International Port. Feeling a bit lost, a port guard approached me if I need something and I told him about my van service. He was kind enough to lead me to where the van service is assigned to park at the port. Kind and helpful people always make my trip. After a few minutes trip, I was off to southern Mindoro.

Mindoro is an interesting place with a mix of mountains, plains and the sea just within sight of each other. It was rainy when I we traversed out of Calapan City so everything was gloomy. What I loved the view was that it was all green and fresh air abounds. Mindoro is relatively a laid back island, not much major business establishments as we see in Manila but that is the beauty of it. As the van was traversing the road to Roxas Port, I wish I could just stop and take some snapshots or sketch the scenery. Rice fields stretch for hundreds of kilometers while coconut trees line the mountainside, so as banana plantations too, owing to the agricultural economic base of the island.

The Spanish named the Island “Mina de Oro”, from where the name Mindoro evolved, believing that the island is full of potential gold mines. No gold mines exist in Mindoro but the real goldmine of the island lies in the lushness of its environment with the hospitality of its people. I never got lost traversing some of the towns I stopped for a leisure work, it seems everyone is willing to help me when I asked for one. People even suggested places to go to and explore but how I wished I have more time to do so. The charm and smiles of the people made me feel much like home.


Nearing Roxas Port, I could hear the language starting to change with some people already speaking in Hiligaynon, or I could have heard Rombloanon, a dialect of Hiligaynon spoken by people from Romblon, just a few mines away from Mindoro Island. Roxas, Oriental Mindoro has become a melting pot of cultures with people more diverse than the capital Calapan City. Here, I could hear people speak in Tagalog, Hiligaynon with mostly the Rombloanon variant and Akeanon. The sight of the ships from a distance was a sign that I was about to end my Mindoro experience. I took a Montenegro ship heading to Caticlan Port, near Boracay Island, Aklan. Mindoro shall have me back soon for more of the island’s wonders and beauty next time.

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More photos available for the curious eyes at the Photo Blog Entries I and II.

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December 30, 2011

Eat Pray ILOve ILOve: A Walking Tour of the City of Love

By Mark Mayo - Magallanes

Randomness is what makes some trips special and amazing. Last December 28, 2011, I decided to cross over again to Iloilo City and thinking of joining a family reunion in Nabas, Aklan to which I cancelled going to for a pre-arranged matter. Instead of going to Aklan, I decided to take a walking tour of the city. At roughly 78 sq. km or approx 30 sq. miles, Iloilo City is a small city that can be toured in just a day. This city is less than an hour across the sea via fast sea vessels like Weesam which I took from my hometown Bacólod City. Instead of taking the usual pedicab from the Port area to the Freedom Grandstand, I decided to stretch my muscles a bit and explore the city.

Being the major port city of the Visayas in the late Spanish era to the middle of American rule, Iloilo City has a number of remnants to that era being the Queen City of the South as decreed by the Queen Regent of Spain. A walk on the streets transports you back to the time and one can imagine the vibrancy of port life that the city has seen. Today, the city is seeing a renewed but more modern vibrance but nevertheless, the classical feel is the touch that will uniquely be Iloilo City’s. Having not eaten breakfast, I decided to go find a place to rest and eat. I did not have to think or walk that long since my classic favorite is just within walk.

Bluejay Coffee at Amigo Terrace Hotel is my personal favorite in Iloilo City and I always to do not miss a chance to pass by here. Amidst the hustle and bustle of jeepneys passing by the streets of the city, Bluejay Coffee offers a welcome respite with a relaxing ambience and a very accommodating staff to serve me. Because I am very thirsty and it is hot outside, I decided to order a cold Café Mocha to soothe my dry throat. I chose to have whipped cream on my cold drink and the crew was kind enough to add a bit of extra, just the way I like it. Asking directions to Wild FM Iloilo’s Station, they gave me a very detailed information on how to get there which is an added extra points for me. Nothing is better than a good cold drink and a cool staff.

As I have observed, this café is a great place for family and friends to hang out. Having the comfort of being situated in the city center, Bluejay enjoys a loyal customer range especially from the consistent travelers like me. For those non-coffee people, their deli selections for one to enjoy and some fruit juices too. Not to mention, they have a good cake selection too but unfortunately though, you have to wait for a day in order for you to order a whole cake. Remembering that I would be meeting DJ Maggie latter at Wild FM Iloilo, I decided to grabe a small cake as a gift. If you spent a long walk around the city and feel tired, be sure to drop by Bluejay Coffee for that sweet tooth fix. Since it was past 11am, I decided to head over to Wild FM Iloilo following the detailed instructions of the café staff which was very helpful.

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More photos available for the curious eyes at the Photo Blog.

20 comments   |  tags: , , , , , , | posted in Beyond the Island, The Bread Rolls, Travel

December 24, 2011

Viaje Sur: Verde Is. Passage and The Voice

By Mark Mayo - Magallanes

As the ship was working its way out of the port, the sun was beginning to rise in the horizon. The location of Batangas International Port is part of the area commonly called the Verde Is. Passage, so named because of Verde Island between Batangas Province and the Island of Mindoro. Verde Is. Passage is the busiest sealane on the country with ships from Visayas and Mindanao passing by the area, international ships heading to Batangas International Port and sea traffic from either Calapan City, Oriental Mindoro or Abra de Ilog, Occidental Mindoro. Even with busy passage of ships, the Verde Is. Passage remains to be scenic on the surface and picturesque with the marine life underneath. The smell of salty air reinvigorates a weary traveler in search of what matters most in life.

Travelling at four in the morning, I was a bit drowsy but my curiosity always gets a hold of me while I took pictures. To the regular travelers who commute between Batangas and Mindoro, they looked at me in amazement as if what I was doing was not the usual. Growing up in a city, these natural wonders are an hour or so drive from where I live in Metropolitan Bacólod and more so in Metropolitan Manila. Travels like these offers me a chance to just meditate on life especially on the creator who created all these. Most often, it is the foreigners who appreciate well these wonders more than we do. I remember a documentary by the National Academy of Sciences that did an eco-research trip of that very stretch of the Verde Is. Passage and found new species never seen before in the world. As I was pondering on all these blessings of God, I suddenly heard someone singing by the deck.

Just as I thought I was dreaming and am hearing a mermaid, I saw a girl with her Mom just five meters from where I was standing on deck. Hearing her sing all the more, I thought to have hit a jackpot and found a good talent until I realized that I was not a talent scout. Where is a talent scout when I need one anyway? But wait a minute, I am a blogger and could be as good as one. After a few thoughts up to heaven for God to push me, I did approach the Mom and Daughter by the deck. Meet Alayza Monis from Fairview, Quezon City. The girl was shy but really musical and would go in a random song, very much passionate about music. Even with her passion, she has not joined any competitions yet though she is a choir member of Himig Ariel.

I talked to the rest of the family members and discovered that all of them are musically inclined to. No wonder why this girl is just so passionate about it. Her uncle is a ship engineer and talked to me much about how he randomly goes into song while working on rounds. Having that talent, who could ever go bored, right? He has his hands with the guitar and is very much supportive of his children, nephews and nieces in their musical talents. Asking why they are going to Calapan City, I discovered that they are Mindoreños. The trip that I though I would be bored to death had meaning after all. I wish to have talent scouts among my readers and actually tap this girl’s talent out. Though it needs a bit of polishing, she has a long way to go. Our conversation was cut short when the shipped whistled arrival at Calapan City Port. The family offered me a free ride in their van for Pinamalayan, Oriental Mindoro, halfway to Roxas Port. I would have loved to but I have already contracted my van ride at Batangas Internationa Port. As I said my pleasantries and blessings, I wonder when I’d see them again. For now, I am bound to Roxas Port first at the southern tip of Mindoro Island on my way to my final destination, Boracay Island.

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More photos available for the curious eyes at the Photo Blog Entries I and II.

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December 24, 2011

Viaje Sur: Batangas Port

By Mark Mayo - Magallanes

Christmas is the most wonderful time of the year and a perfect time indeed for a little rest and relaxation. My trip will take me eventually to the sunny beaches of world-renowned Boracay Island and the hidden treasure of nearby Nabas, Aklan. While the conventional way of getting there is via plane to either Caticlan-Godofredo P. Ramos Airport or Kalibo International Airport, I decided to do a little adventure and actually jump ports from island to island. The start of my journey took me to Buendia bus terminal of Ceres Transit, a Negrénse bus company plying the route of Manila to Batangas. The good thing about Ceres Transit is that it actually takes me directly to Batangas International Port. It was early morning, at about 4am when the bus departed Buendia and went via South Luzon Expressway. There was not much of a view to see since it is still dark but I was able to amuse myself with the glowing lights of Nuvali in Sta. Rosa City which is poised to be a premiere financial center of Southern Luzon.

In less than two hours and after some forty winks, I was able to reach Batangas International Port. Seeing goto and lomi houses along the way made me hungry but the nearest one is some few kilometers away from Port Terminal II so I contented myself with the ever loyal 7′Eleven. This 7′Eleven branch inside the Terminal surprised me a bit since I was not expecting to see one. After a bite of hotdog and a cup of coffee, I was off. I took a ride via Besta Shipping Lines which would give me a wonderful opportunity to take a picture of Verde Island Passage that a ride in a fastcraft like SuperCat would not give me. Montenegro Shipping Lines is the best one to take in this route since they have free wi-fi onboard  for those who get easily bored but they are already full. Do not expect fancy accomodation with Besta since it is quite low-cost for one’s standards.

Batangas International Port is a bustling seaport but the scenery was calm and relaxing. There seems to be a limitless number of ships that are on the horizon waiting to dock by the seaside. Apart from its function as an international container port, the area also host to industrial centers including a coal-fired power plant. This port is one of the most organized one I ever saw around the country, more nicely organized than that of Manila International Port. The air has an aroma of saltiness that just wakes me up from lazy slumber. Just as I though everyone was Calapan City-bound, I saw a group of foreigners who went aboard the ship. In a bit of inquiry, they are on their way to Puerto Galera as a little segway to their final destination, Boracay Island. Little does anyone know, there are foreigners who prefer to take this route not only to have it cheap but also a chance for sightseeing.

While reaching out for a piece of chocolate in my bag, I daw a small boat by the ship. On the boat are people that seems to be begging something from the passengers. This scenery is nothing new in ports around the country. A lady suddenly approached to sell her bagful of panocha for a hundred bucks. Being an ignorant being that I am to a number of Tagalog culinary terms, I asked here what is. The vendor looked at me in disbelief as if I should know what panocha is and I actually discovered it is what I call bandi or the sugar-coated peanuts formed into circular disks. I bought her bagful and threw out a couple for the folks at the boat by the wayside. It was a bit of Christmas treat from a bit cash-strapped me. As I was taking pictures of the port area, the boat sounded the whistle, the signal that I must find my seat for the boat will be departing.

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More photos available for the curious eyes at the Photo Blog.

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October 31, 2011

Mansions of the Departed

By Mark Mayo - Magallanes

One of the busiest holidays in the Philippines is the All Saints’ Day or Undas when Filipino families would stream in cemeteries to pay tribute to their departed loved ones. Asian families like Filipinos have a close knit family ties that even when their loved ones have departed, they would still be there to serve one last time. While some Filipinos are a bit contented with a whole in the ground and a tombstone for their loved ones, the Chinese have a unique way of sheltering the departed. Since I will not be able to go back to my hometown, I decided to check out the cemeteries nearest my place. Being of Chinese heritage myself, I decided to choose Manila Chinese Cemetery not only for convenience but in tribute to my departed ancestors.

One of the most unique features of Chinese cemeteries are its palatial mausoleums. While rich Filipino families may build mammoth structures for their departed, it seems that this one is a “must” custom among Chinese people. For one, I never say a burial in the Chinese cemetery that is below ground. If the family of the departed cannot afford to build a mausoleum, they bury their departed either on open air above ground tombs or on “apartment” block type of tomb. This can be explained by the fact that Chinese people believe the underground is the domain of the underworld spirits that wreck havoc.

By that matter, there is a curious slabstone inscribed with “houtu” always present in every Chinese tombs. Chinese mythologies has it that Houtu is one of the royal goddesses who preserves the balance between yin and yang. This slabstone bearing the mythical character’s name is believed to preserve the balance of good and evil round the departed’s tomb in the belief that this will ensure a safe passage to the afterlife. While a lot of Chinese have embraced Catholicism, this tradition lives on albeit retransformed with the inscription of Houtu now replaced with that of the cross.

Aside from the Houtu slabstone, there is also one common feature among the tombs and that is the offering furnace. I passed by some still smoking from the last visitor’s little ritual. Here, objects representing worldly materials like money, cars, houses and many more are burned as an offering to the ancestral spirits. One common feature of animistic religions are the belief that one carries material possessions somehow spiritually to the afterlife. While the ancient peoples in what is now the Philippines especially the Cordillera peoples bury treasures with the dead, these offerings are a way to bring treasures to the beloved departed. The smoke that rises to the heavens is symbolic of the offerings reaching the ancestors.

The stroll at the Manila Chinese Cemetery also offers some curious structures especially in the oldest parts of the area. Manila Chinese Cemetery dates back from the Spanish era when a plot of land was set aside for the burial of non-Catholic Chinese. In the olden days, consecrated ground like La Loma Cemetery are only reserved for those baptized into the Roman Catholic Church. Chong Hock Tong, Manila’s oldest Taoist temple, is the centerpiece of the burial grounds. Times have changed that even Catholic Chinese are now buried inside the cemetery. Some mausoleums are even reminiscent of cathedrals which can point to the importance of the departed. Burial in bonafide cathedral crypts are only reserved for bishops and the most important people of society.

I went to the oldest part of the cemetery which has the most ornate tombs. Fu dogs are the most common statues that adorn the gates of the tombs which acts as a ceremonial guard to the domicile of the departed. Some of the tombs chose to adapt to the Western themes too with angel or cherub statues as ceremonial guards. I found one curious tomb which has two small replicas of the sphinx as the ceremonial guard. What a lovely mix of two most ancient civilizations in this lovely tomb.

In all these ornate representations of the afterlife, I reflected in the meaning of death. In my Christian Faith, life does not end in death but  a place called heaven awaits for those who are called in God’s elect. It is by death that one can truly live life in full circle. Death was the showcase of love which Jesus Christ redeemed the world. All these material possessions that we store up to our very tombs will rot but the very legacy of faith which one leaves marks an indelible imprint in the lives of those one departs from. Nevertheless, these gargantuan tributes to the departed proves Man’s very search for what is eternal. Each tomb tells a story of one’s life, the traces of candles, incense and flowers a memorial to a life the departed once lived.

Cemeteries offer us a wide mix of emotions but as I went along skipping in the narrow alleyways, this sense of hidden fear somehow turned into inner peace. One thing is for sure, I am still alive and I ought to live life not just for myself but for the sake of others. Each day God gives in our lifetime is a blessing of more days to impact someone else’s life. While these tombs offer a showcase of beauty, this is not where I want to be. I know somehow that this will not be my home even when time comes for me to depart. These palatial abodes for the departed are but a mere speck of what the life after has to offer. As I look into the heaven’s above, I remember Apostle Paul’s words. In this world, I am but a mere traveler carrying a bright light that should show the way in view of the true home that you and I may dwell in eternity.

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Manila Chinese Cemetery feature photos not included here are posted in my photoblog for your curiosity.

2 comments | posted in Beyond the Island, The Bread Rolls, Travel